Vancouver British Columbia to South Padre Island Texas

Get thee to the desert . . .

March 1, 2003

After a Christmas sojourn in rainy Vancouver, it felt wonderful to be back “on the road again.” Although the rain continued for a couple of days, it finally stopped somewhere in Oregon on the way to California. By the late evening of January 21, I had reached Palm Springs, California, and when I woke in the morning to my first view of the desert, my soul soared, affirming to me that I had indeed made the right decision to head south.

For the first part of this latest chapter of my J/journey, I headed to the town of Alpine, Texas (south east of El Paso) to visit a friend who is a professor of history at Sul Ross University. For several days, Matt played gracious host and tour guide, taking me to visit the sights of the area. One of our first visits was to see the McDonald Observatory in Fort Davis. The observatory sits atop Mount Locke (elevation 6791 feet) and boasts several optical telescopes ranging in diameter from 30 to 432 inches. Matt was also very proud to show me his exhibit at the Museum of the Big Bend on the history of mapping in the area. I found it interesting when he pointed out how much more accurate the maps became with time and experience. I reflected to myself how that might parallel the mapping we do as a result of our human journeys–one would hope that we get more accurate with time and experience. Matt also gave me a quick lesson in American football so I could begin to understand the great mysteries of Superbowl Sunday. I was quite moved to hear Celine Dion’s rendition of “God Bless America.” Undoubtedly, her interpretation of this American national treasure touched the hearts of many. There is an advertisement in the AAA guidebook for Texas that boasts, “Texans have a way of making people feel right at home.” Matt certainly set an excellent example of gregarious Texan hospitality.

A visit from a great friend . . .

From Alpine, I headed to New Mexico to begin scouting out good sights to see for my upcoming visit with Wanda from Regina. Wanda arrived in El Paso on Sunday February 9, although her baggage decided to take a more scenic route. Thankfully, the luggage arrived the next morning. We started our whirlwind tour of Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona with a visit to Huecos Tanks State Park near El Paso, Texas, home to a large collection of native rock art. As we were climbing up one of the mountains in the park, Wanda made brief mention of her fear of heights! For you folks who are acquainted with this aspect of her character (especially John, her husband) there is a picture of Wanda the mountaineer in the photo version of this travelogue.

The next day, we visited the underground caverns at Carlsbad, New Mexico. As we rode the elevator down 750 feet below ground-level, Wanda assured me that she didn’t think her claustrophobia would be a problem! What a trooper! Actually, the “Big Room” of the cavern is the size of 8 football fields, so even though it is deep within the earth, it feels spacious and open. This magnificent space is a veritable subterranean fantasy land of speleothems–stalagmites, stalactites, draperies, columns, popcorn, and soda straws.

Our next day’s journey took us through the Lincoln National Forest. Just in case Wanda was missing the snow of Saskatchewan, we stopped to play in the white stuff in Cloudcroft, a small village atop the Sacramento mountains. Speaking of snow, in my quest for great camping places before Wanda arrived, I tried to visit Aguirre Springs campground, just outside of Las Cruces, New Mexico. It was snowing so heavily that even this seasoned Canadian turned around and headed back down the mountain! From Cloudcroft, we wound our way down into the Tularosa Basin to the Three Rivers Petroglyph site, which displays examples of prehistoric Jornada Mogollon rock art. This site contains over 21,000 petroglyphs, including masks, sunbursts, wildlife, hand prints, and geometric designs. That night, as we camped at Three Rivers, we were serenaded by coyotes. In the morning, we were greeted by the cheeping of a flock of Gambel’s Quail.

The next day, we visited the White Sands National Monument–the world’s largest gypsum dune field. Having searched the white sands in vain for the bleached earless lizard, we travelled north to find consolation in the hot springs at Truth or Consequences. Soothed by the healing waters, we continued north to Albuquerque where we enjoyed a feed of cajun-style seafood, and then camped out at the local Walmart (I take my visitors to only the best Walmarts, truck stops, and rest areas in the land!).

The next morning, Wanda discovered the local quilt shop, and we stopped for a gathering expedition. Then, continuing north, we visited Santa Fe and Taos. That night, we camped out at my favourite rest stop in all of New Mexico–nestled alongside the Rio Grande gorge bridge just west of Taos. I have witnessed some of the most amazing sunsets in this location, and it was here that I learned to observe the sunset in both the west and the east as the colours of the sunset reflection are as spectacular.

From Taos, we journeyed through the Carson National Forest to Ojo Caliente (literally “Hot Eye”), the home of seven different hot springs and mineral baths. Having soaked our cares away (what cares you ask?), we headed over to Santuario de Chimayo, a popular Christian healing and pilgrimage site where the soil is believed to have curative properties.

The next day, we flew across New Mexico so we could experience a few of the sites in Arizona. We began our Arizona adventure with the Painted Desert. We also attempted to visit the Hopi cultural centre but were unsuccessful in finding it. In order to assuage our defeated souls, we stopped for our daily sandwich and beer in a little picnic spot where we witnessed a simultaneous sunset and moon rise–spectacular!

For the final full day of Wanda’s visit, we journeyed to Sedona via Oak Creek Canyon–for me it was a challenging descent through hair pin turns to the accompaniment of Wanda’s oohs and aahs! In Sedona (far too many tourists for either of our likings), we did find two of the best pizzas we have ever eaten! Wanda chose to coordinate with a kilt-lifter beer; I chose a rare Shiraz. Our hungers satisfied, at least momentarily, we headed off in search of Sylvia Dykes’ hugging tree. Earlier (Sylvia and I had a quick visit in Vancouver before my departure to the US), Sylvia told me about having travelled to Sedona and having been taken by a tour guide (via jeep, no less) to a tree which both she and Dave hugged and felt a certain “energy.” Given the interest of both Wanda and I in “energy,” we eagerly sought out Sylvia (via email) for directions to the “tree.” She obliged. Unfortunately, Wanda and I were not able to find said tree. It may have been Buckskin’s reluctance to follow in the tracks of jeeps where no van had ever gone before. Who knows. Unwilling to be skunked again, Wanda and I selected a tree we thought looked “energetic” and hugged it. We agreed that next time, we would bring Sylvia with us! So look out trees of Sedona! Be forewarned!

No trip to Arizona would be complete without sighting at least one Saguaro cactus, and luckily for us, these desert occupants were plentiful on the road between Sedona and the Phoenix airport. In spite of our hectic pace, Wanda looked a bit more rested when she returned to Canada than when she arrived. I know her life continues to be filled with the challenges of family life. Wanda, I hope your trip was a desert oasis, and I thank you again for the many terrific memories we created. To life, my sister!

By the way, anyone who wants to risk running the road with this crazy pilgrim is welcome to do just so. Here’s the deal–you feed me occasionally (don’t forget how much I love spoiling my company with home cookin’), I’ll feed Buckskin, and I promise to take you to some of the best Walmarts in the country! Much to our surprise, Wanda and I managed to “camp out” quite comfortably in Buckskin. If you want more privacy, I do have a small tent and sleeping bags (the guest house). Just call ahead and I’ll suggest arrival and departure airports.

Continuing south . . .

After Wanda left for the colds of Canada, I hit the road heading for South Padre Island to rendez-vous with Lucella and Wayne–another couple of friends from the Eastside congregation in Regina. Along the way, I stopped to visit Paint Rock, a native rock art site in Texas. This site is on the private ranch of Kay and Fred Campbell who were happy to explain to me the history of the many pictographs on their land. As Fred was driving me to the site, we passed by a flock of wild turkeys who take refuge on the ranch. As well, Fred showed me some of his mohair goats who were just in the process of kidding. It reminded me of many of my visits to farms in Saskatchewan–except calving seems to happen in extremely cold weather in Canada. On my way south, I spent a wet and cold afternoon meandering along the Riverwalk in San Antonio. This was the time when even the deep south got hit with a cold blast of air that I hear was the fault of a Canadian cold air front. In Canada, by the way, we blame the Arctic for these nasty conditions. In the Arctic, they blame Russia! When I arrived in the balmy south of Texas, I was greeted with freezing temperatures! Wayne and Lucella told me they had never experienced such cold weather in the ten years they had been visiting this area. “Don’t blame me,” was my only response. Once again, I silently gave thanks for the propane furnace in my little mobile home.

Being good “down homers” from Cape Breton, Lucella and Wayne know all about hospitality, and it was a great treat for me to meet their “winter Texan” friends. Wayne, as many of you from Regina already know, is a gourmet cook par excellence, and so we spent many good times over the dining room table tasting Wayne’s varied menus. One afternoon, we visited a local farmer where we bought fresh avocado, papayas, and tangeloes. Another afternoon, we visited a shrimp fisher who was happy to supply us with enough of the delicious beasties for dinner–yum. Wayne did half of the shrimp as peel and eat and the other half as shrimp scampi. It was a wonderful feast! On the final night of our visit, they treated me to an amazing seafood buffet at a local restaurant. What a feast! After that, we joined their friends at the farewell party for the winter Texans at the hotel. Already, the influx of Spring Breakers had begun, and so there was an interesting mixture of generations fighting to entertain themselves with the Karaoke machine. By the end of the week, the weather had warmed up considerably, but along with the warmth came a suffocating humidity. As I said my farewells to Wayne and Lucella (and their many friends), I found myself longing once again for the desert.

Stay tuned for the journey north. Having been to Inuvik in the North West Territories (the farthest point north one can drive in North America), I touched base in Brownsville, Texas (I almost crossed over to Mexico by accident!) so I could say I’ve driven to one of the most southerly points in the USA. Although I would have loved to continue into Mexico, that is for another J/journey.