Prince Rupert British Columbia to Calgary Alberta

Becoming a peaceful traveller . . .

September 14, 2002

Having returned from Prince Rupert rather disappointed at not being able to visit the Queen Charlotte Islands, my journey took me eastward to Kitwanga and the Hazletons. I stopped in a little aboriginal village called Kitwancool in search of totem poles. There, I met a native woman who told me a wonderful story about a water creature similar to Ogopogo. Her children had actually seen the beast and since then, she has had a fear of them going into the deep water of that lake.

As many of you know, one of the questions that is guiding my journey is “What is Sacred” and I held this question in my mind as I stood before the huge totem pools in the village. In 1967, the province of BC erected a sign to explain the totems. It said, “These stately monuments in cedar proclaim the owner’s clan status and inherited family traditions, but were never associated with religion. Clan crests portrayed mythical creatures, sometimes in human form, from the legendary history of the clan. As a unique primitive art form, the poles are fitting examples of the artistic talents of these native people.” My first thought was this–just because they weren’t associated with religion doesn’t mean they’re not sacred. Certain books claim that totem poles are sacred. How are they sacred if not religious?

Later that day, I toured the native interpretive center called K’san and the tour guide helped me to understand that these totems tell a story and often act as a respository for the essence of a person’s life or a clan’s adventures. Ahha, I thought. I think I’m getting it. If the totems capture the essence of life and story and both are sacred, then the totems could be considered sacred in much the same way as Christian scriptures are sacred. I learned much at the K’san centre and enjoyed the luxury of being the only person on the tour so I had the undivided attention of the guide. Just inside their museum, there was a sign that outlined the credo of the peaceful traveller. It said this:

“Journey with an open mind and a gentle heart. Accept with grace and gratitude the diversity I encounter. Revere and protect the natural environment which sustains all life. Appreciate all cultures I discover. Respect and thank my hosts for their welcome. Offer my hand in friendship to everyone I meet. Support travel services which share these views. By my spirit, words and actions, encourage others to travel the world in peace.” Wow! These words of wisdom were developed by the International Institute for Peace through Tourism, an organization I want to learn more about. These words definitely capture the intention of my journey and my hopes and values.

Basking in sacred healing waters . . .

Moving on from Northern BC, I travelled through Prince George and Kamloops, eventually finding my way to Hot Spring central! I began with Nakusp, a hot spring destination that was recommended to me by Dale and Judy Tilling from Regina. After a revitalizing dip, I travelled just a bit farther north to Halcyon Hot Springs. Here I camped in a site that was perched along a rock cliff overlooking Arrow Lake. I was the only camper there and in the evening, I lit a bonfire and spent some time drumming in the dark. The next morning, I took my daily dip in the hot springs and then travelled south to Ainsworth Hot Springs. A short ferry ride took me to Cranbrook, driving through the Kootenay Mountains. My next stops were Fairmont Hot Springs and Radium Hot Springs.

I then journeyed through Kootenay National Park. Buster and I stopped to take a hike in a forest that had burned last August (2001). Our walk was accompanied by an eerie sense of being in a cemetery. So many of the scorched trees were still standing and the place was infused with a deep stillness. Life and death are constant companions, however, and there was plenty of evidence of new life–lots of wild flowers and other plants were blooming at the feet of the trees. For me, the forest felt very much like a sacred place.

From there, we continued through the park to Banff, Canmore and Kananaskis, revelling in the beauty of the Canadian Rockies. We arrived in Calgary on September 17 and I prepared to celebrate with my family in the marriage of a cousin. Stay tuned for the next installment of the adventure–My Cool Canadian Cousins’ Wedding.

 

Totem poles at Kitwanga.

 

 

Wildflowers and Fireweed heralding new growth following a devastating forest fire.